Upon my arrival in Skopje, the capitol of the Republic of Macedonia, I quickly tried to locate a way out of the city to more peaceful and natural surroundings. Of course, this was not very difficult as Skopje is surrounded by mountains and forests, and I was taken to what has become one of my favourite spots, Matka.
Everyone here knows and has been to Matka, and for reason; it is breathtakingly beautiful and spectacular. What makes it even more popular is it's proximity to the city. On hot summer days ( 40° C not being uncommon), a few hours spent here can virtually save your life, one of the few places where you can take a dip in a river, chill out and then sip some Skopsko beers.
Matka is located 14 km south west of the city center, it is originally a steep canyon with the river Treska running through it. An ideal location for a hydroelectric dam, which was eventually constructed at the end of the canyon in 1938, making it Macedonia's oldest dam. A course of river seven kilometres long is used for water storage creation, and it is possible to hike or go by boat along this stretch of the river.
Matka canyon in 1919
And today...
To get there, one can bike, drive or take a taxi from Skopje, it is a relatively short ride of about 30 minutes from the center, and there is a bus, number 60, from Deksion, that will take you there and back for 40 Denari, just slightly more than 70 eurocents (more information on the JSP bus company website-www.jsp.com.mk). For unknown reasons, you have to buy a return trip, go figure...but remember to save the time schedule, buses aren't all that frequent.
Whichever means you choose, once there you can walk along the road to visit the dam, or continue to the Hotel-restaurant Canyon Matka for refreshments or some exquisite Macedonian cuisine. You can visit the canyon by boat or hike along the river; albeit spectacular, this is not for those suffering from vertigo. You can visit monasteries, or Vrelo cave, who speculation has it that it could be the deepest underwater cave in the world. And much more.
Being curious by nature, I like to explore a chosen place as much as I can, and Matka has never disappointed me. I see things here that I've never seen anywhere else, like some fantastic species of butterflies with colours that will blow your mind. I believe I read somewhere that there are 84 species of butterflies that are endemic to the canyon and found nowhere else in the Balkans. This gives you an idea of the rest of the fauna. Like I mentioned previously, a entomologists dream.
If you like history, flora, climbing or just about anything else relevant to this part of Macedonia, you will not be disappointed.
But enough rambling, time to get to the final destination and how to get there.
Sveti Nikola monastery is situated high above Lake Treska (500m altitude) on a virtually inaccessible peak, no precise historical origin of the church exist but it was first mentioned in the 17th century. It's construction was an achievement for the time, especially considering the landscape and abrupt terrain around it, however it is not a large church. It is interesting to note that it's location is the only flat and liveable ground in the area, and there are a couple of springs next to it. So, whoever found the place did a good job. I bet he was a wine drinker.
It has been through various fortunes over the centuries, and it is now inhabited, but it has been refurbished by the Macedonian military forces, and it is well maintained considering it's location. However, visiting the monastery itself will be difficult, as it is closed to the public, except on certain special occasions.
All this is very nice, I talk the talk, but can I walk the walk?
Right, here is how to get there. Don't expect to find maps; they do exist, even detailed ones, but they are only available to the state and the military. Maybe one day.
There are several ways to get to the monastery, but you're going to have to walk it, no other way.
This is a scenic route, it goes from Matka bridge to the monastery, it isn't very difficult, it takes about 60 minutes give or take 20 minutes, but it is uphill and rocky terrain, so I would advise some good walking or hiking shoes, and some trekking poles if you have some. Take some water with you (and wine if you like), knowing that you will find a spring on the way, the appropriate clothes depending on the season, just remember that this is a canyon with a dam and a lake, these places tend to have micro climates and the weather can change very rapidly.
A small but well equipped first aid kit would be a plus, and maybe a flashlight just in case. Cell phones work fine to my astonishment, but that is very often the case everywhere in Macedonia, how DO they do it?
In the unlikely event that you got yourself in a tight spot, here is the phone number of the Matka rescue team; 071 261 013.
I found the place the first time I went there, but I have been trekking for a long time now, so experience pitched in. It isn't always obvious. I have taken pics and have used my Garmin GPS to save the route, so here goes.
Going from Skopje, get off at the blue bridge near the kayak course.
Cross the bridge and at the end turn right and follow the trail along the river, you will go up and down for approximately 400 meters, until you find the actual trail that goes up there. There is a large rock with markings on it, but it is fairly easy to miss.
Then, just follow the trail and the markings (when available), it's uphill for roughly half the trail, but pause once in while to view the scenery and the surroundings, it is beautiful! Check out the turtle, he was one big dude. Bet he had some interesting stories to tell, considering his supposed age.
Here is the spring, it is near the monastery. The water is fresh and on a hot summer day, it tastes better than wine (if that is possible of course)
You will end up at a gate (of heaven?), you have arrived!
It is a little haven of paradise in the middle of nowhere, or at least that is the impression the place gives you, because you are not far from civilization, but there you will find peace, fresh air, no noise or unduly city sounds, it is a place to relax and recollect.
I will not post more pictures so that your imagination will do the rest, you can find them of course on the net but may I suggest a trip there so that this story comes into perspective, maybe a little picnic will be of salutary benefit.
To leave the site, there are two basic ways; you either follow the same path you came from, or if you're feeling lazy or just want to go back by a different route, you will find a path at the south western end of the site that will take you down to the lake below. It is steep and it zigzags through the woods, but it is shorter and quicker. When you get to the lake, you will have to shout at the people on the other side to get a boat sent over (not sure about this in the winter), and then you will end up at Matka canyon hotel-restaurant and the Sveti Andrea monastery. After, it is just over a kilometer back to the blue bridge.
There are other routes, and many more interesting things to do in the vicinity, and I shall talk about this and my expeditions there in future articles.
If you wish to obtain the GPS route to get there, I will be happy to give you the link to it, or the Google Earth satellite map. It will give you some relevant information and a good idea of the route to the monastery.
Matka is a fantastic place, everyone can find something interesting to do there, may it be just a lazy afternoon, hiking or just fishing in the Treska river.
You will come home feeling invigorated.
