And of course, I love old markets.
When I got here, after a couple of days I had my tobacco. Actually, it was a gift, so I still had to find the market and tobacco.
The market in question is called the "Bit Pazar", it is adjacent to the "Old Bazaar", some of my favorite places in Skopje.
Old Bridge |
It has been around since the 12th century, when it became a major trading center and evidence suggests that it may have been inhabited as early as 4000 BC, possibly even earlier.
When they say Old Bazaar, they are not joking.
It is the largest bazaar in the Balkans, apart from Istanbul, it continues to be a major center for trade and commerce, and if you couple it with the Bit Pazar, you should be able to find everything you are looking for.
One of the great things there is that when you talk to a vendor and ask for something that he doesn't have or sell, he will invariably take you to someone who does, or he will find it for you.
In Skopje, when you are looking for something hard to find, people say "try the Bit Pazar".
And you know what? You actually do find the hard to find item most times . Maybe not exactly what you were hoping for, but close enough. And with a smile...
Beat that!
Over the years, I have made some friends there, such as my Turkish barber, and my friend Kerim, who sells, in my opinion, the best natural tobacco in the bazaar.
Bit Pazar |
Spices, fruit, clothing, tools, you can find everything there |
I started when I noticed that my father didn't have any mosquitoes biting him when we used to go trout fishing, and he suggested I stick a French "Gitanes" smoke in my mouth to keep them away, like he did, and lo and behold, it worked. All the other repellent lotions and potions didn't do nothing, but "Gitanes" made them back off.
As a matter of fact, they made me back off too.
Makes me wonder what would of happened if I had been puffing on some superb herb. Guess my father would of stung my ass LOL
I put a smoke to my mouth but I don't inhale, sort of like pipe smokers. I just like the taste, which is why I only smoke hand rolling tobacco. It was my friends from the Netherlands who introduced me to hand-rolling, and I never liked commercial smokes, they make me cough, they stink and for the most part, they all taste the same to me, just stronger or lighter.
So, a few days after my arrival here, I went to the Bit Pazar, and I found what I was looking for, pure natural tobacco with no additives or other artificial junk in it.
To make things even more amazing for me, it was sold by the kilo and the price was nothing compared to Europe.
Tobacco was introduced in Macedonia by the Ottoman empire in 1574, as it had the right conditions for growing it. Since then, it has remained one of the most important crops, and today 60% of the areas planted with industrial crops are of tobacco, with a total share of around 35-40% of the agricultural export, making it the leading export product, with wine in second position.. It is also the biggest employer in the agriculture field, as it is very labour intensive.
The type of tobacco is mostly of the oriental variety, with the Prilep and Jaka varieties accounting for over 80% of the production. Prilep oriental tobacco has a sweet, pleasant and refreshing aroma, and is used in the blends of many well known smoke manufacturers. It is of high quality, the best known and most demanded on the market. It is a protected type and has a registered geographic origin.
Tobacco growing in Macedonia |
Try doing that in Europe and you will quickly see what happens to your ass.
Tobacco leaves drying in Prilep |
When it starts drying out, just put a few cabbage leaves on top of it, and let air circulate, this will humidify the tobacco without giving it a funny taste. Make sure that the cabbage leaves don't stay there too long, otherwise they will start rotting and the tobacco with it.
In the winter, this isn't necessary, but come summer you'll have to do this at one point or another. And store it in a cool place out of the sun.
An interesting note, hand-rolling is almost exclusively done by the Albanian, Bosnian and Turkish communities, who will all tell you of all the positive virtues of this type of natural tobacco; it doesn't smell up your house or clothes, doesn't give you a sore throat and is better for the health than the commercial variety.
Also it costs a lot less than commercial smokes. A pack here costs anywhere from 80 euro cents to 2.5 euros approximately. One kilo of tobacco goes from 2.5 to 10 euros for the Macedonian variety, to over 15 euros for the Bosnian one.
Now the irony of this is that Macedonians smoke a lot, but exclusively commercial smokes, I have never met one who hand rolled and since money is very tight here, you would think that they would of switched to save some money like Europeans and Americans have, considering they have the finest and cheapest tobacco that you can find, but nope. I still have to figure this one out.
One kilo lasts me over four months.
According to tradition, it is best to use rolling paper without glue so as to not alter the taste of your tobacco. You can find these yellow packaged papers easily, but I do not use them as I prefer thin paper that burns slower. Less smoke, less paper and less mosquitoes. Harder to find though.
www.tip.edu.mk). These dudes take their tobacco seriously.
Prilep also had the first warehouse for purchasing and processing tobacco in Macedonia back in 1873, it was then known as R.O.T. , "Régie Ottoman de Tabac". Now it is the Tutunski Kombinat Prilep. They manufacture what I believe to be the best tasting commercial smokes around, the Filter Oriental (known as Filter Jugoslavija in the past) , they're inexpensive and burn slow.
Good smokes for good folks |
And last but not least, James Bond smoked Macedonian smokes. An excerpt of Ian Fleming's description of the character;
"James Bond smoked specially made cigarettes from Morlands of Grovenor street - a Macedonian blend with three gold rings around the butt. He carries them in a wide gunmetal case. He lights them with a battered black oxidized Ronson lighter "
James Bond and his Macedonian smokes |
If they're good enough for 007, they're good enough for me!
Hi mate, excellent write about Bit Pazar :), im from south west part and often go to bit pazar to get my tobacco, you have a number for Kerim so i can contact him next time i go there?
ReplyDeletew/respect
biguran@yahoo.com
Hi, thanks for your kind remarks. I am afraid i do not have his phone number any more, as I haven't been in Skopje on a regular basis for a while, however I did see him in November 2013, and things had changed-he had little tobacco to sell, and his prices had gone WAY up! I used to pay 600 denari for good tobacco up till 2012, then in 2013 it went to 800, which is fair enough, but last time, it was 1500. Now, I understand what he is doing, and if it works for him, fine. I found tobacco just as good 20 metres away from him for 900.
DeleteAs you know, things are changing in Macedonia, and money is hard to get, so
tobacco prices reflect that, at least in Skopje. But look around, I am sure you can find the greatest tobacco in the world for a good price, just make sure that it isn't too dry (in my opinion), and remember that these guys have to make a living like all of us.
Pozdrav